Safe Cosmetics

The world of face products and cosmetics is so huge and overwhelming that I have been putting off this very important blog. I've touched on the topic briefly in other blogs, but I'm diving in, tackling it head-on. When I refer to cosmetics in this post, it also includes face washes, shampoos, deodorants, etc.

What motivated me to finally write this post, is that I've been reading the most amazing book, "The Green Beauty Guide" by Julie Gabriel, who also has a website by the same name. I'm going to attempt to highlight the most eye-opening parts of this book, but if you are interested in natural skin care, I highly recommend reading the book (available at the library too!).

1. "Normal" skin doesn't exist. Slight dryness and oily spots are totally normal, but cosmetic companies have turned them into problem areas that need fixing. The key to remember is that when you put a product on your face (or hair) to fix a problem such as an oily T-zone or a pimple, you are simply trying to cover up the problem and not dealing with the cause.
2. Sebum is our skin's way of keeping itself moisturized. Skin care experts claim that sebum mixes with dead skin cells and bacteria to form plugs in pores. So naturally they jump to the conclusion that sebum is the enemy, instead of promoting good skin care habits that would eliminate dead skill cells and bacteria buildup.
3. Our skin absorbs up to 60% of what we put on it, meaning that what you are putting on your skin, you are also putting into your body. Many of the chemicals in our skin products are carcinogenic and therefore getting into our bodies.
4. Many of the claims made by cosmetic companies are bogus. They do have to prove or back up their effectiveness claims. When a product says "dermatologist tested" what it means is, a dermatologist looked over the ingredients and deemed them safe.
5. The European Union banned animal testing 2000, but here in the US, all we do is animal testing, and most often on genetically modified mice or rabbits, and it's the only research the FDA will stand by. As I've mentioned before, the FDA is a joke. Since it's creation (67 years ago), the FDA has banned only nine personal care ingredients. It took 20 years for the FDA to ban lead, yet it is still used in millions of toys that are let into our country. And there is a ton of research out there (quoted in the book) that supports the connection between chemicals (that are allowed by the FDA) and cancer.
6. Do NOT be fooled by the claims that a product is "natural," "eco-friendly," or "organic." You MUST read the label and ingredients. Many contain "eth" chemicals that are dangerous (see below).
7. Perfumes are FULL of toxic chemicals. I began avoided them while pregnant because I learned how dangerous they can be for a fetus and have not returned to wearing them.

Okay, here's the list of chemicals you want to keep an eye out for because they have been shown to be carcinogenic:
1) Anything containing the word "ethanol" including DEA (diethanolamine)
2) 1,4-Dioxane; banned in Cali and a by-product of ethoxylation which is an attempt by companies to provide mildness to harsh ingredients. It has been proven by EPA to lead to cancer and yet it is not required to be listed on the label. Look for products with ingredients "eth" in the name--sodium laureth sulfate, polyethylene glycol (PEG), oleth, myreth, ceteareth.  PEGs are very often found in baby wipes (which is why we use cloth wipes, except when on the road).
3) Phthalates: disguised as di-n-butyl phthalate (DBP commonly in nail polish) and di(2-ehtylhexyl) DEHP in perfumes). The word "fragrance" should also be a red flag for you, unless it specifically says that it comes from essential oils. Fragrance is a disguise for phthalates, which changes our hormones, making males and females more feminine. Research links phthalates to rising incidence of hormone-related conditions, including polycystic ovarian syndrome, infertility, and breast cancer. Recent research links phthalate use to early puberty in girls. The CDC found that phthalate levels in young women were 20x above average. Unborn baby boys are also susceptible to phthalate use. Increased phthalate levels have been shown to damage the developing testes, but also have been shown to have more systemic affects such as low sperm count, sexual dysfunction, and hormonal problems. Increased phthalate presence has also been linked to abdominal obesity and insulin resistance. And yes, phthalates are in our children's toys, and yes, Europe banned them two years ago....and the US is behind the ball again...
4) Aluminum has been linked in research to breast cancer and Alzheimer's Disease. It is most commonly found in our deodorants, because it helps to clog the pores and not let sweat out. Aluminum is a known neurotoxin and it can alter the blood-brain barrier.
5) Glycol: these are in everything, from aircraft deicer fluid to baby wash. The two most common are propylene glycol (PG) and polyethylene glycol (PEG). PGs are generally recognized as safe by the FDA for use in food, cosmetics, and medicines, however it was banned from cat food...hmmmmm. PEG is used in a lot of "natural" products that have to be delivered in a slippery, syrupy form. These chemicals have not been linked to cancer, but change the body's chemistry by increasing the amount of acid present, which results in metabolic problems. There has been evidence that PEGs have impurities that lead them to be toxic.
6) There are also many, many preservatives used in cosmetics that increase their shelf life. There are many natural preservatives that could be used to replace these, but aren't. One natural cosmetics expert stated that if a product is made poorly and diluted with water, then it needs a preservative, but a well made product would not need such strong preservatives.
7) Parabens (a preservative): again, these are in EVERYTHING. When rubbed into the skin, the parabens are rapidly absorbed and metabolized and stored in the body. A major study in 2002 linked parabens to proliferation of two estrogen-dependent human breast cancer cells. Parabens have also been found in breast milk and breast cancer tumors. Parabens mimic estrogen and can therefore affect our ovaries and thyroid. They are disguised as benzoic acid, isobutyl p-hydroxybenzoate and p-methoxycarbonylphenol and are strictly regulated in Europe.

So here's my latest finds that are about as natural as you can get:
Natural Being, using Manuka honey from New Zealand
Suki, the latest rage among celebs but have very good natural care products, with the exception of 1-2 products.
Dr. Hauschka: the end-all and be-all of healthy cosmetics. It falls WAY above my price range, but maybe someday :)
Origins is pretty good in eliminating the major players like DEA, parabens, phthalates, but still have a few questionable ingredients, usually low on the ingredient list, but nonetheless they are there. Many of their simple products, like "Checks and Balances" facewash, are fairly safe.

And if you have others you love, let me know!

If in question about any of your cosmetics and skincare products, please consult www.cosmeticsdatabase.com. It allows you to type in products as well as ingredients to find out how safe or unsafe they are. It also tells you why a chemical is unsafe.

This book has been a fabulous read, and I'm going to try a few new strategies (found in her book), on how to improve my skin. If you struggle with your skin, it is worth your time. I'm hoping for good results!